Bath
The city of Bath is one of the finest stone towns in England. Its
finest buildings are mainly Georgian and the city is blessed with
great sweeping terraces of extraordinary elegance. The Roman Baths
and Pump Room are one of Bath’s most famous attractions. Built
in 1795 it includes the spa water fountain, which was sacred to
the Romans. Lunches and light refreshments are available during
the day but one of the most evocative times to visit is during an
August evening. By flickering torchlight one needs little imagination
to discern through the steam the ghostly figures of centuries ago.
Bath Abbey stands
on the site of an Anglo-Saxon Abbey Church of 757, destroyed by
the Normans soon after 1066. In 1090 they started to build their
own massive Cathedral, which, by the end of the 15th century lay
in ruins, the victim of its size. It is probably within this abbey
church, protected from weathering, that the creamy-white Bath stone
is seen at its best, nowhere more so than in the wonderful 16th
century fan-vaulted ceiling.
Notable amongst
Victorian eccentrics was William Beckford, sometimes know as the
‘fool of Fonthill’ after his Wiltshire folly home which
he sought to make into a rival to Salisbury Cathedral Beckford’s
Tower was built in Bath as a base for him in this fashionable town,
and a retreat where he could house his collections of art and rare
books. Visitors to the Tower can enjoy the commanding views from
the top of the Tower. The Landmark Trust leases the ground floor
rooms, which can be taken as a holiday flat. The Beckford Tower
Trust has ensured that the entire structure is now in good shape
and runs the museum dedicated to Beckford’s frequently bizarre
life and works.
Cambridge and Audley End
For many Cambridge is the very epitome of what they expect a university
city to be. That unique blend of ‘town and gown’ seems
particularly appropriate in a place which has known academic excellence
for many centuries, yet still contrives to retain a sense of antiquity,
so that there appears to be no real conflict between a 14th century
architectural gem such as King’s College Chapel and the Science
Park to the north of the city. Perhaps partly because of this Cambridge
is one of those places to which even the most demanding shopper
may turn with confidence, because it is all there and, whatever
it may be, it is offered to you with an easy charm and familiarity
that is both welcome and reassuring.
The colleges,
all part of the University, have an individuality which is often
subtle to the visitor. Each has its own architecture, its own academic
inclinations, its own atmosphere. Nearly all are open in one form
or another to the visitor. Many back on to the River Cam, hence
that phrase ‘The Backs’, which flows through the town
rather akin to a Venetian highway. The combination of historic house
and ancient university offers a day out of London which is not only
unique but presents a cameo view of the history of England.
Edinburgh
Edinburgh is a city which lived on the edge until at least the 18th
century, ransacked every so often by its powerful neighbour to the
south, all too often riven by internal disputes within the country
of which it was, and is, the capital. Overshadowing the entire city
is Edinburgh Castle. Garrisoned by the Scottish Regiments this strong
fortress is built on top of a volcanic plug. From its ramparts every
day (except the Sabbath) is fired the One O’clock Gun. During
your visit you should also see Mons Meg, reputed to be able to fire
a large stone cannon ball a distance of one and half miles. The
Castle is host every August, for three weeks, to the Edinburgh Tattoo,
without doubt one of the most dramatic of its kind and owing much
to its location.
One of Edinburgh’s
most attractive features is the city’s relationship with the
surrounding countryside, which is clearly visible from so many parts.
Coupled with this is a sort of easy parochialism, probably founded
on the fact that in a country of just over 6 million souls familiarity
is understandable. Arthur’s Seat and Salisbury Crags in particular
provide a backcloth which is easily accessible, offering superb
views back into the city and across the Firth of Forth.
Museums and
places of enlightenment abound. Don’t miss the Camera Obscura
at the top of Royal Mile, a system of revolving lenses and mirrors
projecting a moving image of the surrounding city. The Writers Museum,
associated with Sir Walter Scott, Robert Louis Stevenson and Robert
Burns is located in James Court. If you would like to know more
about Scotch Whisky call in at the Scotch Whisky Heritage Centre
on Castlehill and finish your visit with a wee dram.
The Scottish
Gallery contains some of the best in contemporary Scottish art.
The Edinburgh Gallery has a special penchant for discovering and
promoting young artists. To miss The National Museum of Scotland
from any itinerary would be an opportunity missed.
Greenwich
To say
that Greenwich is the centre of the world is no idle boast. The
whole world orientates its maps around Greenwich and the whole world
sets its clocks in time to this small part of London. It's the place
where east meets west, where a simple line on the floor at the Royal
Observatory has international significance. The Prime Meridian -
the hypothetical line joining the north and south poles - defines
zero degrees longitude. It runs through Greenwich and is the point
from which all navigation worldwide starts. It also signifies a
fixed point in time - Greenwich Mean Time - from which all other
time zones are measured. Greenwich's place as the ‘centre of
the world’ was assured after a conference in America in 1884
agreed that one prime meridian should be used worldwide to avoid
confusion between countries concerning navigation and time.
The history of Greenwich history dates back much further than the
19th century though. Sitting on the south bank of the River Thames,
it was recorded as the settlement of Grenevic in 964AD and as Grenviz
in the Domesday Book of 1086. In the 15th century Humphrey Plantagenet,
the Duke of Gloucester, enclosed an area which became Greenwich
Park, overlooked by a watchtower on a nearby hill. This area is
now home to perhaps the finest set of baroque buildings in the country,
including the Queen's House, which was designed by Inigo Jones for
James I's wife Anne. It was actually finished in the 1630s for Queen
Henrietta Maria, consort to Charles I. For much of this century
it has been part of the fascinating National Maritime Museum which
includes the world’s largest maritime historical reference
library. The Old Royal Naval College designed by Sir Christopher
Wren dominates the site and includes a fine Rococo chapel and utterly
breathtaking Painted Hall where Nelson’s body was laid after
the Battle of Trafalgar; it is considered perhaps the finest dining
hall in Europe if not the world. Built on the site of a former Royal
palace which was the birthplace of Henry VIII, Queen Mary and Elizabeth
I, the college now houses Greenwich University’s Maritime Studies
Institute as well as Trinity College of Music, continuing its educational
role for future generations.
One of the most
popular landmarks is the Royal Greenwich Observatory which houses
an interesting museum, and boasts that famous line on the floor
dividing east from west. The area has been strongly influenced by
its past and still retains many links with the sea. Tourists flock
to the area to see the Cutty Sark, the famous tea clipper now on
display as well as the newer Gipsy Moth II, in which Sir Francis
Chicester sailed around the world single-handed.
The beautiful parish church is known as St. Alfege (officially,
St. Peter and St. Aelfeah) after the Archbishop of Canterbury who
was martyred there in 1012 by marauding Vikings. Rebuilt after storm
damage by Nicholas Hawksmoor, it was the site of Henry VIII’s
baptism in 1491 and is General Wolfe’s burial place. Also buried
here is Thomas Tallis – known (alongside William Byrd) as the
father of English church music, and the musical tradition is upheld
to this day through one of the best resident church choirs in the
city.
Greenwich is
now a thriving area of London, with wide areas of green open space,
interesting pubs and bars and the famous Greenwich Market which
was established by Royal Charter in 1849 and remains London’s
best source for hand crafted items and trinkets. So, whether it’s
history, entertainment or cuisine, Greenwich can offer the lot -
and all within a stone’s throw of central London.
Hever Castle and Chartwell
The many-varied pattern which was the life of Sir Winston Churchill
had as its background his home at Chartwell. Here, for 40 years,
he retired to ponder, to nurse political wounds; here he plotted
and planned. Here also he came to relax, to paint and to be himself.
Nowadays Chartwell is in the hands of the National Trust who, with
their customary dexterity and skill have gone a long way towards
recreating the atmosphere of the Churchillian days.
Many of his
paintings are here, the daily newspapers, the cigars, the walls
which he built with his own hands. He took care to remain a fully
paid-up member of the appropriate trade union for bricklayers. In
the grounds the traditional black swans remain. In an excellent
museum is a wide-ranging collection of his momentoes, uniforms,
sound recordings and other memorabilia.
So, taking that direction quite literally will bring us to Hever
Castle, a romantic and moated Castle forever associated with King
Henry VIII, who carried out a passionate courtship here directed
at Anne Boleyn, married her and, when she failed to produce the
much sought-after male heir, had her executed at The Tower of London.
Not long after
her savage death Anne Boleyn’s father died and ironically the
King gave Hever to Anne of Cleves as part of her divorce settlement.
There followed a series of owners, with the property deteriorating
until in 1903 William Waldorf Astor bought it and set about a major
restoration of the Castle and estate. Money was lavished on Hever.
The Castle was restored to its 15th century appearance, a Tudor-style
village was provided for the many guests who came to stay and the
gardens and grounds were re-created and expanded to the wonderful
condition in which they are to be found today.
A maze, formal
gardens, large lake and Italian Gardens now look as they were always
intended to be. The overall impression of castle and grounds does
much to remove the sadness surrounding the earlier history of this
outstanding property.
Leeds Castle
Shrouded
in mist, mystery and legend, Leeds Castle rises from its own lake
amidst one of England's most picturesque counties; the survivor
of 1000 years emerges into the 21st century pre-eminent among the
great buildings of the British Isles. It has experienced battles,
witnessed intrigue, entertained and solaced leaders of men, inspired
countless artists and now provides a place of fascination and enjoyment
to half a million visitors each year of all ages.
Originally a Saxon royal manor built in AD. 857, Leeds became the
stone Castle of the Norman Crevecoeur family. From 1278 Leeds was
a royal palace where Edward I built the unique fortified mill and
barbican. Falling to Edward II's troops in 1321 because his Queen
was refused admission, the Castle was never again besieged as it's
reputation for being a ladies Castle grew ever stronger. In it's
illustrious history, Leeds Castle has been the home of six medieval
Queens of England and will no doubt be graced by many distinguished
ladies in the centuries ahead.
In the 17th
century, the park at Leeds Castle was given a formal appearance
- some of the original oaks planted between 1710 and 1740 still
survive in the grounds today. The tree planting took place at intervals
throughout the 18th century and since the great storm of October
1987, we have planted many new trees to restore the 18th century
plan as well as create new avenues for our visitors to enjoy.
The Castle's
rivers, streams and lakes are home to over 30 species of waterfowl.
The Duckery, created in 1960 for Lady Baillie by Stèphane
Boudin and the international garden designer Russell Page now provides
a natural habitat for a wide collection of ducks, geese and swans.
The meandering streams lead to the Wood Garden which during the
Spring, with its carpet of daffodils, narcissi and anenomies presents
a vibrant burst of colour through the ash, willow and alder trees
which pepper the wood. Later, the visitor is treated to the magnificent
splendour of azaleas and rhododendrons which emblazon the garden.
Richmond Park
Richmond Park, extending over some 955 hectares (2,360 acres), is
a heritage landscape of national importance. The Park was enclosed
as a hunting park by Charles I in 1637 and still retains many ingredients
of a medieval deer park. Essential to its character is the rich
landscape of semi-natural acidic grassland, areas of bog and bracken,
wetland, woodland and ancient parkland trees, and the herds of fallow
and red deer that still roam the park. In 1992 the park was notified
as a Site of Special Scientific Interest by English Nature.
Royal Bothanic Gardens - Kew
Horticulture
at the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, is a multi-purpose activity,
supporting the institution's research programme and balancing this
with a high-quality visitor amenity. The unrivalled living collections
represent a resource for botanical science world-wide, whether for
pure scientific purposes or those with economic potential. Most
important of all, the living collections and the horticultural skill
that cares for them are a resource for ex situ conservation of plant
diversity and its integration with habitat restoration and species
reintroduction.
Stonehenge
The only thing one can say with any degree of certainty about this
great site is that it was not built lightly. Given the size of the
materials involved this may seem a slightly flippant comment but
it is not so intended. Enormous time and effert must have gone into
the creation of this mystical structure. There is considerable speculation
about its purpose, ranging from a burial site for the great and
the good from ancient communities, through an astronomical observatory
to a temple created for the worship of early gods.
The earliest
indications are of a Henge, built about 5,000 years ago, in the
form of a large earthwork. Around 2,000BC the first stone circle
was set up. Given that these are believed to have come from the
Prescelly Mountains, in Wales, the logistics are impressive. Each
stone weighs about 4 tons and some 80 stones were used. Perhaps
suprisingly the work was abandoned before completion.
The final stage
was the erection of the massive sarsen stones which form the outer
circle. Weighing 50 tons each these were brought from the Marlborough
Downs, about 20 miles away, again presenting a severe problem of
transportation. It is estimated that some 600 men would be needed
to move each stone past Redhorn Hill, encountered on route.
The question
of who built Stonehenge is one which has occupied the minds of scholars
and engineers over the centuries. There is still no real answer,
though the Druids provide a romantic and lasting 'solution'. It
seems more likely that the people of the late Neolithic period commenced
the construction and that it was completed by the so-called Beaker
Folk.
Whatever
its origin Stonehenge should not be missed. It is a source of pleasure
that English Heritage, who now care for the site, appear to be intent
on reaching a solution to the vexed question of how this magnificent
monument should be managed and presented to the many thousands of
visitors who come to marvel at its mystery.
York and
York Minster
In 71 AD the Ninth Roman Legion settled in York. They called their
new base ‘Eboracum’, believed to mean ‘a place of
yew trees’. There is still ample evidence of their presence
to be seen and visits to the Minster Undercroft, a bathhouse and
the Roman column in Deangate bear testimony. By 866 AD the Vikings
had arrived, devastated the city and gave it the new name of Jorvik.
Their occupation lasted less than a century but again there is plentiful
evidence of their short occupation. The Jorvik Viking Centre recreates
those turbulent times vividly and must be visited.
But it is probably
the Minster which provides visitors to York with their most abiding
memories. Visible from miles away across the flat Yorkshire plain
it has provided the north of England with a religious focal point
which in no way detracts from that at Durham. In 1291 the builders
of the nave of the new Cathedral realised that they had created
a space which was so large that its roofing presented a major difficulty.
Their solution was to bridge the walls with a ‘lightweight’
wooden roof, so inadvertently producing one of the finest wooden
roofs ever to be built.
By 1472 the
new building was ready for dedication and so was born what has come
to be known as the largest gothic cathedral in Northern Europe.
The sense of scale is indeed awesome. The principal enemy of this
great building could be said to have been fire. In 1829 a deranged
man set fire to the Minster and caused major damage. Whilst still
recovering from this blow an accidental fire severely damaged the
roofs and the Minster went into a period of decline.
The 20th century
brought its share of worries when the central tower had to be underpinned.
Hardly was this work complete when the Minster was struck by lightning
and the south transept suffered major damage. No wonder York is
said to have more ghosts per square mile than any other city in
Europe. York is full of Georgian elegance, a former prison converted
into the Castle Museum as well as the York Dungeon, the National
Railway Museum, the Regimental Museum and the Yorkshire Museum.
Visit also the York story in St Mary’s Church, a restored medieval
church.
